Rolex has opened a new chapter in its modern watchmaking story with the Perpetual Padellone, a sophisticated dress watch that combines an annual calendar, moonphase display and the brand’s Dynapulse escapement in an elegant 39 mm case.
The name “Padellone” connects the new model to one of the most celebrated complicated Rolex watches from the past. The historic reference 8171, produced around 1949–1952, became known among collectors as the Padellone — Italian for “large frying pan” — because of its unusually broad case for the period. The modern Perpetual Padellone does not simply recreate that watch. Instead, Rolex uses the historic idea as a starting point for a completely new contemporary complication.
At the heart of the Perpetual Padellone is an annual calendar. The watch automatically distinguishes between 30- and 31-day months, meaning the calendar requires manual correction only once per year, at the end of February.
The date is displayed around the perimeter of the dial, indicated by a dedicated hand, while the month indication is integrated into the dial in a restrained way. At 6 o’clock, a moonphase display adds another traditional complication to the watch.
This combination makes the Perpetual Padellone one of the most mechanically ambitious modern Rolex dress watches, while still maintaining the clear and functional display associated with the brand.
Inside is Rolex calibre 7190, an automatic manufacture movement featuring the brand’s Dynapulse escapement. Dynapulse is a high-efficiency sequential distribution escapement designed to reduce energy loss and improve the efficiency of the regulating system.
The movement operates at 5 Hz (36,000 vibrations per hour) and delivers approximately 66 hours of power reserve. It meets Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer standard.
The Perpetual Padellone therefore combines traditional complications with some of Rolex’s newest movement technology — a significant step for a brand best known for highly robust time-only and sports watches.
For collectors, the launch is important for more than its design. The annual calendar, moonphase and Dynapulse technology demonstrate a different side of Rolex watchmaking. It shows that Rolex can move beyond its established sports-watch formulas while still maintaining the durability, precision and recognisable identity expected from the brand.
Whether the Perpetual Padellone eventually becomes a new pillar of the Rolex collection remains to be seen, but its combination of history and modern engineering already makes it one of the most notable complicated Rolex releases of 2026.
A Refined 39 mm Dress Watch
The Perpetual Padellone is presented in a 39 mm precious-metal case with a slim and elegant profile. The collection includes ref. 53505 in 18 ct Everose gold and ref. 53506 in platinum, with the Everose model offered on either a leather strap or the Settimo bracelet. Its design is noticeably different from Rolex’s familiar professional watches. The case, dial and proportions are focused on classical elegance, while the display remains clean despite the amount of information shown.Annual Calendar and Moonphase
At the heart of the Perpetual Padellone is an annual calendar. The watch automatically distinguishes between 30- and 31-day months, meaning the calendar requires manual correction only once per year, at the end of February.
The date is displayed around the perimeter of the dial, indicated by a dedicated hand, while the month indication is integrated into the dial in a restrained way. At 6 o’clock, a moonphase display adds another traditional complication to the watch.
This combination makes the Perpetual Padellone one of the most mechanically ambitious modern Rolex dress watches, while still maintaining the clear and functional display associated with the brand.
Calibre 7190 and Dynapulse
Inside is Rolex calibre 7190, an automatic manufacture movement featuring the brand’s Dynapulse escapement. Dynapulse is a high-efficiency sequential distribution escapement designed to reduce energy loss and improve the efficiency of the regulating system.
The movement operates at 5 Hz (36,000 vibrations per hour) and delivers approximately 66 hours of power reserve. It meets Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer standard.
The Perpetual Padellone therefore combines traditional complications with some of Rolex’s newest movement technology — a significant step for a brand best known for highly robust time-only and sports watches.
A Modern Tribute, Not a Reissue
One of the most interesting aspects of the Perpetual Padellone is how Rolex approaches its history. Rather than producing a direct vintage reproduction, the company has taken inspiration from an important collector’s Rolex and interpreted the idea through modern materials, proportions and movement engineering. The result feels connected to the historic Padellone without being restricted by it. It also expands the modern Rolex catalogue into a category rarely associated with the brand today: complicated, precious-metal dress watches.Why the Perpetual Padellone Matters
For collectors, the launch is important for more than its design. The annual calendar, moonphase and Dynapulse technology demonstrate a different side of Rolex watchmaking. It shows that Rolex can move beyond its established sports-watch formulas while still maintaining the durability, precision and recognisable identity expected from the brand.
Whether the Perpetual Padellone eventually becomes a new pillar of the Rolex collection remains to be seen, but its combination of history and modern engineering already makes it one of the most notable complicated Rolex releases of 2026.
The Details
- References: 53505-0002 (Everose gold, leather strap), 53505-0003 (Everose gold, Settimo bracelet), 53506-0002 (platinum, leather strap)
- Case: 39 mm, precious metal
- Dial: Intense White (Everose gold) or Ice Blue (platinum), peripheral date, day and month windows at 12 o’clock, moonphase at 6 o’clock
- Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, annual calendar, date, month and moonphase
- Frequency: 5 Hz (36,000 vph)
- Power reserve: Approx. 66 hours
- Certification: Superlative Chronometer
- Strap/Bracelet: Alligator leather or Settimo bracelet, depending on reference
- Year: 2026
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